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The secret to a great theatrical makeup job doesn’t just lie in its design, or in the brand of cosmetics you favor — the tools with which you apply it are just as important. There are numerous key factors to consider: which type of brush serves the application purpose; the correct bristle material (not only can this affect the look of your finished face, but you must be sure to avoid allergic reactions in your actors); ease of use; plus, convenience in terms of care, storage and durability must be considered. Who knew picking a brush could be so complicated?
No need to be intimidated, though. The following makeup brush primer should clearly and concisely outline everything you need to know. It also contains the advice and opinions of the best make up experts in the business to give you the inside skinny.
The Shape of Things
Many experienced thespians (even some makeup artists) believe that there are really only a few basic options when it comes to makeup brush types: your standard foundation, blush, eye and lip models. This is not really the case.
“There’s hundreds of different shapes of brushes out there,” says Gene Flaharty of Mehron, Inc., a veteran makeup artist, teacher and designer. In a nutshell, the shape of a brush refers not to the full width of the bristles, but to its tip, which determines the width and detail of shading, contour and the amount of makeup that can be deposited on a section of the face.
Three basic types of finished tips are:
• Straight or square tip: ideal for lining the eye, plus using for eye shadow or defining eyebrows.
• Round or tapered tip: an excellent lip brush.
• Chisel tip: great for blending blush and contour makeup, as well as applying eye shadow.
Within these categories, many, many different size measurements are available. The specifics of the size you choose are really all about personal preference and the makeup design you'll be executing. Ben Nye's sales and marketing manager, Patricia Saito-Lewe, breaks things down by category: Powder and Blush Application, Eye Makeup and Lip Product Application.
For “Powder and Blush”, bigger is better according to Saito-Lewe. "Since face powder is applied over the entire face, a generously-sized (1.5 to 2 inches or wider) domedhead brush is typically the most efficient," maintains Saito-Lewe.
For her next category, “Eye Makeup,” Saito-Lewe suggests using a 1/4” to 3/8” wide brush for base colors. Smaller, more tapered heads are good for contouring. When it comes to lining, she recommends a fine to very fine round brush. The tip of the brush should be tapered to a fine point. A narrow, flat, angle-cut brush is excellent for application of dry or wet eye shadow to the lash line. The top end of the angle will easily work well in tight areas such as the corners of the eyes.
Finally, for “Lip Product Application” Saito-Lewe stresses, “Lip brushes should be no wider than 1/4 to 3/16 of an inch. The brush head should be flat, with a tapered head suitable for ‘painting in’ the corners of the lips. Turn the brush on its side for lining, use the flat side for filling in color.”
There are many shape options when it comes to FX design as well. For example, Mehron offers a three sided brush, “great for face-painting in shows like Godspell,” says Flaharty. “You can load up three colors at a time, and do detailed FX like flower petals.” Do your homework by isolating the steps it will take to create your specific FX, then browse the Web. You’ll be amazed at the shape range of FX brush products that all the major theatrical makeup lines offer to get the job done.
The 411 on Fibers
Top-notch bristle material is an essential component to a good brush. In the past, this meant you had to buy expensive natural fibers, but not anymore. “Good quality synthetic brush fibers now available replicate the qualities of natural fibers, such as sable,” explains Dana Nye, president of Ben Nye. “They are delicate, supple, resilient, versatile and often more economical than natural hair bristles. For example, dome brushes and angle brushes are excellent alternatives for eye makeup application if cost is a factor.”
Flaharty concurs. “Sable brushes will always be more expensive than synthetic, but nylon brushes are a really good option, too, and are available at very good prices,” he explains. “The biggest thing to keep in mind is that quality will last you.” In numerous application scenarios, synthetics are specifically preferable. “Synthetic hair fibers provide more body and firmness, which is essential for certain applications such as cream (oil-based) makeup, including lipstick and water-activated cakes,” notes Saito-Lewe.
Another important point: ease of use, which some quality synthetics can more readily provide less experienced customers. “Golden tacklon brushes, designed to be a substitute for red sable, are easier to clean,” points out Eric Coffman, president of Graftobian. “It’s nice for a young makeup artist to have brushes that can easily be taken care of.”
Road-test a brush’s bristles before you buy. Here’s how: swirl the bristles over the sensitive skin on your inner wrist, the brush should feel soft and plush to the touch. Fan out the brush to see how sturdily the bristles are attached to the brush, you don’t want any shedding. Make sure the bristle head is firmly attached to the brush handle. Also, evaluate the weight and heft of the handle in your hand while you’re at it. The brush should feel comfortably light, and the handle length should ideally fall within the range of seven to nine inches. Flaharty also recommends choosing a brush with an acrylic handle; painted handles or regular handles can become damaged when submerged in water, while acrylic can stand up to the elements. Also, remember to double-check that the brush bristles are hypoallergenic in every case.
Maintenance Matters
It’s crucial to care for your brushes the right way if you want them to have a long life. Harsh chemicals, for instance, can wreak havoc on both natural and synthetic bristles. “Alcohol can frizz up your brush,” warns Coffman. A mild conditioning hair shampoo can be used to wash out your brushes safely. Even better, however, is a professional stage brush cleanser, which is gentle, but contains ingredients strong enough to rinse away the toughest makeup residue.
Make sure you wash out your brushes frequently enough. “Ideally, you want to wash your brushes at the end of each day, but you can’t wash them if they’re being used between acts or shared by actors every time,” points out Flaharty. In this situation, you can use a quick-dry product (usually in spray form), but don’t make a regular habit out of it; these products can stiffen bristles gradually. Instead, Nye advises, “Pour a brush cleaner into a shallow dish or small plastic cup (approximately three ounces) to clean your brushes. A secondary cleansing and/or final rinse in clear water is recommended in a second cup to remove residue.” Saito-Lewe also notes that brushes should be swirled, not soaked, in a cleaning solution. She additionally advises wiping the brushes dry with a tissue.
A few extra cleaning tips and tricks:
Keep water temperature about lukewarm to warm for best results.
Visually inspect your brushes after washing to make sure all makeup has been removed.
Never try to speed the drying process by blow-drying your brushes, which can be very damaging. You can, however, air-dry brushes by laying them on their sides on clean towel if desired.
Reshape bristles gently by hand once your brushes are dry.
Don't store wet brushes in a sealed bag or container. Once your brushes have dried completely, it's okay to store them in a professional brush roll or case, or to put them in a makeup case, drawer or simiar container.
Using the right brushes and keeping them well cared for will insure your skill is reflected on every face they touch.
Lisa Mulcahy is the author of the book Building The Successful Theatre Company (Allworth Press).
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